the train from BG to ZG
On October 5th 2001

                                                        announcing my radio documentary on
                                                        Vukovar, a pit in the Balkans
                                                        Dutch Radio 1, Tuesday 16th of October 10 am

                                                        http://www.vpro.nl/buitenland
 

"Shta je ovo?"

In Nova Gradishka four footbal hooligans joined me, and a doctor travelling to Italy, in  the
compartment of the train  that brought me from Belgrade to Zagreb. I had spent two days in
Belgrade to make a report for Dutch VPRO Radio on what the revolution exactly a year before
had done for the people. And before I was in Vukovar, to dedicate a radio documentary to its
destruction ten years ago.
I said nothing but turned the small bottle of mineral water  some 180 degrees: Voda Vrnjci, now
showing in latin letters.
But later he tried some anyway. Not bad. And he appreciated my original Dutch Drum tobacco as
well. Roll your own of course.

"Are you from Nova Gradishka?" , I asked, thinking of Sanja's plot nearby, and my dream to
grow a wallnut tree on it one day. No, they were from Zagreb. Wasn't there a match this evening?
It was about 9.15 in the evening. Yes, the under 18s from Croatia and Belgium had played 1-0.

Now they were drunk, and travelling back to Zagreb. Loading up for the real match next evening
in Maksimir. "Za koga navijes", who do you support, the jews from Ajax? the boy in front of me
asked. Yes, I said, and De graafschap, The Superseljaci. I asked them about the one minute
silence for New York, broaken by Bad  Blue Boys and Torcida's, shouting "Vukovar!
VUKOVAR! VUKOVAR!!"

I informed them that I had aired Bad Blue Boys in the Confetti Bar twoo year before on Dutch
radio. "Aha, with Choka" my opposite said. Yes, I said, that was one of them, doing the Dynamo
show on Radio 101.

Then maybe you would like to record with me how you shouted Vukovar in the stadion, for my
next program on Vukovar? No problem. A test, to bring the level down. And then again when the
train had stopped in Novska, near Pakrac where I have worked as a peace-promotor for half a
year in 1993-4.

But why you were yelling Vukovar? " Nobody  made silence when our people were killed. I don't
want to be silent for fucking jews in New York. Fuck Israel."  The boy sitting next to my
opposite explained. Basically.
The doctor next to him told him to wash his mouth after this. And actually he fell silent.

A police man passed by for an ID-check. The explainer didn't have any document, but got away
with it. Next came the conductor to stamp the tickets. "We've thrown them away".  The conductor
first took it as a joke. But then he heard they didn't have money for a train ticket. Although two of
them did have money for a mobitel. And booze of course.Then the conductor, an elderly guy, got
angry, said he would call the police. And switched of the light before leaving us.
I switched on the light soon enough to continue reading Sandor Marai. And the doctor her reading
her weekly Nacional.

My opposite neighbour did most of  the talking, begging and explaning. He went out to make
arrangements. And apparently he succeeded, coz later on he settled back in his seat in facing mine.

After arriving in Zagreb I happily accepted their help to get my heavy suitcase across the railway
separating us from the main square.

Jo van der Spek
jo@xs4all.nl

dedicated to Croatia's entry into their second World Championship Tournament.